[Syrupmakers] excelsior mill

[Ken Reit]

Thanks JT, I appreciate that. You may be right on the length if he has what they call “drops”.  They vary but are typically less than 6 ft I am told. Actually it would not have to be one piece. It could be a couple that I’d weld together to get to around 10ft plus or minus.

 

Ken Reitsma

 

From: syrupmakers-bounces at syrupmakers.net [mailto:syrupmakers-bounces at syrupmakers.net] On Behalf Of DBACrownhoney at aol.com
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 8:21 AM
To: syrupmakers at syrupmakers.net
Subject: Re: [Syrupmakers] excelsior mill

 

I don't know I'll ask. I think it's mostly 3-4 ft. pieces. Ask me about it again in a few days in case I forget. It's hard to catch him at the shop sometimes.

 

JT

 

In a message dated 1/31/2008 11:16:05 P.M. Central Standard Time, Reit8472 at SW.RR.COM writes:

That is some good thinking JT! Your friend wouldn’t by chance know where a fella could get a piece of 30” X 10 ft to rebuild a smoker would he?

 

Ken Reitsma

 

From: syrupmakers-bounces at syrupmakers.net [mailto:syrupmakers-bounces at syrupmakers.net] On Behalf Of DBACrownhoney at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2008 12:03 AM
To: syrupmakers at syrupmakers.net
Subject: Re: [Syrupmakers] excelsior mill

 

Were do you live? I have a friend that works on the pipeline and he says they have piles of scrap. All different sizes. I don't think you will find one that's an exact fit, but I could probably get one pretty close. And if it were me this is what I would do. You can build a big forge cheaply out of a 18 wheeler wheel rim. And us a leaf blower for the air supply. Take a piece of pipe that's a little smaller diameter than the roller. Then split it in half, then quarter it. It may also help to split it in eight pieces. This would give you more weld area. Then heat it on the forge and hammer it down on the roller to a exact fit. Since your pipe is a little smaller than the roller when you put the pieces around the roller it will leave a gap between each piece. This gap should be wide enough to get some weld to the roller and also to the next plate. Then you'll have a strong attachment to the roller but not have to use all those rods to build up. Then have it turned on a lathe. 

Anyway, that's just what I would try.

 

J.T.

 

 

 

 

In a message dated 1/30/2008 9:37:45 P.M. Central Standard Time, Ptrpdt at aol.com writes:

Thanks for the info. I was not sure if a roller is cast thick enough for re grooving without taking a chance on weakening the roller enough to cause damage when grinding cane. thought about building roller up with cast high alloy rods and turning on a lathe but at $76 a pound for rods I can buy a mill cheaper by the time I am done. might split a piece of pipe if i can find the right size and weld it to the roller and groove it as last resort.

 

 

                                                                                                 thanks, peter

 


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